It began when my family moved to Turkey because my husband had been recruited by the U. S. Foreign Service (our Embassies and Aid Programs) as an auditor of the U. S. Agency for International Development in the Middle East. We lived four years in Ankara, and when we left we had a house full of everything from carpets to Anatolian Shepherd Dogs. But the dogs, the copper pots and pans and the wheat grinding sleds I will leave out of my discussion. I will stick to jewelry, textiles and home furnishing accessories such as artifacts for display.
Within a few months, our Ankara flat's hardwood parquet was covered with magnificent carpets. The dollar seemed to go farther in those days, 1969-73. I was still a fairly young householder and I wanted copper vases, ceramic plates, and more and more carpets. I had not had such beautiful handmade things available to me before that time in my life. My husband traveled to Iran, to Egypt and to Greece, bringing back everything from cut crystal imported to Cyprus from Czechoslovakia to marble statues surplused from the museum in Cairo. It took me a while to become interested in ethnic jewels. Those wool carpets were my collecting passion for those four years.
But then we took the overland route to Afghanistan, our next post. In our Land Rover with our youngest son lying on all the necessary supplies in the back, we drove for about a week through Eastern Turkey and Iran, and all along the desert road through Herat and Kandahar to Kabul. We settled into a lovely home made of mud brick with smoothed painted mud floors. They were easy to repair because after several earthquakes the mud mason shows up with a bucket of mud and fills in the crack and paints in over. Earthquakes are fairly common in Kabul, because it sits in the lower reaches of the Himalayas, in the Hindu Kush Mountains. Since that mountain range is still rising, the earth stretches and yawns fairly often.
Bactrian Amulets, Carved Alabaster Miniatures 4500 Years Old
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How fascinating, Anna! Going to Afghanistan has always been a dream of mine - a dream cut short by the Russian invasion ): Two friends and I already had a flight booked to Kabul for the summer of 1980. John had lived in Afghanistan and had traveled extensively in the Middle East and was going to be Sandra's and my tour guide. I still dream about Afghanistan. I tears my heart at what has gone on there. Lucky you to have actually lived in such a fascinating place.
ReplyDeleteOh, I wish you could have gone. You would have found those jewelry shops and carpet shops fascinating and the food great, too. The scenery is breath taking. We lived there for two years from 1973 to 75 and were very disappointed when we had to move.
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